Factors of sewing thread in Garments industry

In textile industry, thread is one of the essential trims for garment sewing or assembling. As sewing thread is one of the most important trims, calculating the consumption of sewing thread also important task for a garments merchandiser which we already discussed in article “How to calculate sewing thread consumption and costing”.

factors of sewing thread, sewing thread, factors affect in consumption, sewing thread consumpton

Sewing thread required for assembling garments parts or seam sewing, label attachment, buttonholing, over locking etc. It’s important to know the consumption of thread, how much thread used to stitch in a garments product. To calculate sewing thread consumption, we have to consider few factors to find out final consumption for a garment product.

Thread requirement will varies based on product categories and those affect in result of thread consumption per garments product. In garments industry, there is lots of different type of product and different number of components to be sewn together and has different seam length. Different types of fabric used to seam a garments and different types of sewing machine used depend on product type and categories. In this case, our first and main factor is to find out a product and how many different threads used to seam a product. In a short way we say that, product with less no. of components and shorter seam length require less thread.

Find the below technical factors those determine actual thread requirement;
  • Fabric thickness and seam
  • Stitch class
  • Stitch per inch (SPI)
  • Thread tension
  • Count of thread
  • Type of machine
  • System of production

Fabric thickness and seam
As sewing thread consumption depends on fabric thickness, if thickness of seam increases then thread consumption per stitch increases. Here, seam thickness varies on no. of fabric layers to be sewn together and thickness of fabric sheet.

Stitch Class
Sewing thread consumption will increase or decrease, it’s totally depends on stitch class. For single stitching, different stitch classed need different no of thread. If no. of threads in a stitch increase, then thread consumption will increase accordingly. If no. of threads in a stitch less, then thread consumption will come lower. Suppose, a 4 thread over lock machine require more thread than 3 thread over lock machine to sew same length of seam.

Stitch per inch (SPI)
No. of SPI (Stitch per inch) may vary based on product category, seam to seam, fabric quality and thickness. Sewing thread consumption will increase when stitch density increases. Buyer will provide SPI details in product technical pack. If SPI density increases than thread consumption will increase for a garments product.

Tension of thread
Thread tension is one of the most important factors for calculating sewing thread consumption. It’s also played a role for consuming thread. If thread tension is higher than consumption will come less. So, before calculating the thread consumption for a garments product, we should focus on thread tension.
Count of thread
Another most important factor of sewing thread consumption is thread count. It’s one of the factors that affects to determine thread consumption. If thread count or thicker is higher than thread consumption will be higher.

Types of machine
Type of machine and stitch class both are interlinked to each other in garments industry. Machine is one of the important factors to calculate sewing thread consumption for a garments product. Consumption varies machine to machine in term of length of thread tails at the start and end of the seams. A five thread over lock machine consumes more thread compare to three thread over lock machine or single thread over lock machine. So before start to calculate sewing thread consumption we must keep in mind machine type used to seam a product in bulk production.

System of production
Production system or layout is one of the important factors for bulk sewing thread consumption. This process included or considered here as what wastage percentage to be added in calculating the final consumption for a product. If production layout, consider by higher no. of machines than wastage will increase automatically. Keep in mind, in bulk production sewing cones are distributed among many numbers of machines. So, we have to consider all thinks before finalized the thread consumption for an order. 

Role of Garment Merchandiser

After getting the purchase order from buyer, garment merchandiser has to take immediate step with different departments for smooth work environment. Merchandiser’s roles start after taking the order from buyer and until ship the goods to buyer on time. In the meantime, merchandiser co-ordinate with different department within the organization, suppliers and job worker’s logistic outside the company.  In a short way, we can say that merchandiser will analysis, make plan and control the overall order from start to final shipment of the goods.

  1. Role with buyer and sampling department
  2. Role with purchase department
  3. Role with store department
  4. Role with testing department or lab
  5. Role with electronic data processing department
  6. Role with HR department
  7. Role with production department
  8. Role with quality department
  9. Role with packing department / finishing
  10. Role with commercial department
  11. Role with shipping department
merchandising role, role of merchandiser

Role with buyer and sampling department

The initial stage of merchandiser is order confirmation with buyer and co-ordinate with sampling department for various approvals before start the bulk production.

  • Role of Merchandiser with buyer: after getting the enquiry from buyer with tech pack, garment merchandiser has to work with various departments and prepare a quote to submit the buyer. Price quotation will be intimated to the buyer that price is negotiated and confirmed. After that, buyer will sent the purchase order along with the LC. At different sampling stage, merchandiser has to send print embroideries and trims accessories to the buyer for bulk approval.  Bulk goods will be produced and shipped the goods after getting the all trims approval from buyer.
  • Role of Merchandiser with sampling department: After get all details from buyer with tech pack, garment merchandiser will arrange the fit sample for approval and sample size may be in one size. After get the comments on fit sample, buyer may ask for full size set or pre-production sample in jumping size or one size. At sampling stage, print, fabric, color, trims and print placement approvals are also finalized in sample stage. At the same time, technical team will check measurement chart and confirm upon any increase in measurement will lead to an up charge. Here also paper pattern is also update as per buyer comments and follow update spec sheet.

Role with purchase department

In garments industry, basically purchase department is divided into two departments like fabric and accessories. Here is describe bellow

  • Fabric department:  Fabric requirement come from buyer & after that factory merchandiser will follow their parameters.  As per buyer requirement, merchandiser will take action to keep the parameter of fabric count, construction, weight or GSM, design of the fabric, fabric quality & color etc. In tech pack, buyer will provide all details instruction of fabric & after that garments merchandiser will hand over all details to the fabric manager for further progress. Garments merchandiser coordinates with fabric manager until unless get the fabric from fabric department. After getting the fabric from fabric department, send to the buyer for approval of quality, design, GSM & color. At first, around 3KG to 5KG fabric knitted for approval purpose. After getting approval comments from buyer, the price is negotiated with supplier and placed the bulk work order. Before start the fabric production, need to coordinate with production department for measuring fabric width or Dia to minimize the production loss. Keep in mind, buyer standard before start the bulk dying. Dying department has to keep in mind about AZo dyes. Buyer may ask for Azo test at any time in the middle of the bulk production. If the quantities are too small for manufacturing the goods then stock lots can be offered to the buyer. Main goal of garment merchandiser is sourcing, pricing and time of deliveries of bulk fabric. Generally, almost 5% excess given in bulk with actual required quantity but this can be vary based on order quantity or companies to companies.
  • Accessories department: After price negotiation with buyer, they will provide full details of trimming and accessories requirement by style wise. Garment merchandiser will arrange the trims as per required and keep in mind color, size, design and logo etc. Sometimes buyer may look nickel free metallic items. If those items are not available in market as per buyer required then options can be proposed to the buyer. After getting approval of trims and accessories from buyer with price negotiation, bulk work is placed to the supplier for faster production. Here garment merchandiser’s main goal is in-house all trims and accessories before start the bulk sewing to smooth production. Normally, extra 3-4% added with actual order quantity and may vary depend on size wise order quantity.

Role with Store department

After place the work order to the supplier, garment merchandiser will provide all work order along with purchase order of the style to the store manager. Once the trims are in-house, the store manage will send a sample to the merchandiser for approval purpose, on receipt of approval of the same goods will be in-house. Here garment merchandiser will arrange the work order with price to the store manager. If any deviation come of receiving goods then have to report to the store manager or accessories manager. Here garment merchandiser will provide size wise order quantity along with approval trims to the store manager. So that store manager will understand what quantities are to be dispatched.

Role with testing or Lab department

Generally test requirement come from buyer, factory merchandiser will send the sample to the selected companies. Now a days, large company arrange basic in house test like rubbing, shrinkage test, color fastness, saliva test etc. Fabric, trimmings and accessories are tested as per given buyer parameters. Sometimes, buyer may look for third party test report like azo, fabric composition, ph etc. Buyer will provide the tolerance range for acceptance of goods.
  • Fabric testing: In various stage fabric test are conducted as per buyer requirement. Fabric test like GSM, strength, length, width, shrinkage, thickness, count and color fastness etc.
  • Yarn testing: Yarn test included like count, strength, twist etc.
  • Accessories testing: As per buyer requirement, buyer may look for accessories test like color fastness, corrosion & metal items test etc.

Role with electronic data processing (EDP)

Garment merchandiser should be in synch with all departments regarding the progress of each style which is running in production. The EDP department will help to arrange data into one place where user will get the full data in one click. Here will show total status of style in one data which is collected from different departments. There are many software packages available for this job. Large organizations arrange their own ERP system internally for better performance.

Role with HR department

Garment merchandiser should inform HR department in case of manpower, local transport requirement and manpower movement requirement.

Role with production department

Garment merchandisers main goal is ship the goods on time without any problem. For smooth production, merchandiser will hand over his style details with order quantity to production department. As per plan, production department will input the goods after getting the size set pattern from cad department. As per buyer requirement, garment merchandiser submits the production sample to the buyer for approval. Before submit the production sample, merchandiser should take size set approval from buyer. After start the production line, merchandiser will coordinate with production department in daily basis regarding order progress and clarification of doubts in any. It’s main duty of garment merchandiser to follow up the patterns, fabric approval status and trims in-house on time.

Role with quality department

Each and every buyer is looking for quality product. Garment merchandiser should maintain quality of the product as per buyer requirement. The quality department have to maintain quality standards as buyer requirement, when production running in line. Each and every point have to check carefully for maintain quality standards. On the basis of styling of the product, quality manager will set the check points to maintain the quality level as per buyer standards.

Role with packing department (Finishing)

As per buyer instruction of packing, garment merchandiser will provide all details to the packing department. Garment merchandiser will provide style wise garments quantity, ratio quantity, solid quantity, marking details which are received from buyer. Suppose, buyer want individual poly bag or single poly bang used in garments then ration quantity packed by blister poly bag etc. As we know that, storage and labour cost is higher in foreign countries. Buyer considering the situation, they made effective plan to utilize the cost and space. Garment merchandiser should collect all details of packing form buyer and send to the packing department, so that it becomes easy to utilize the cost and space of the carton and dispatch where there is a requirement.

Role with commercial department

Factory merchandiser will provide a copy of all purchase order against the particular order to the account department. Account department will co-ordinate with all departments like garment merchandiser, supplier for any excess or shortage or price variation etch. As account department allocated fund against an order (e.g bank transfers, LC negotiation etc). The account department negotiated all payment which is related with order depending on the type of L/C. Once shipment completed, as per buyer required document submitted to the bank and payments are received.

Role with shipping department

Factory merchandiser always co-ordinate with shipping department for vessel booking, transport etc. for his order and complete documents of shipping submitted to the account department for realizing the fund from buyer.

After complete the shipment of the goods, garment merchandiser will compare the actual and final budgeted cost to insure contact profitability.

Activities of Garments Merchandiser

In garments industry, garments merchandiser is like bridge between buyer and company. After getting the order sheet from buyer, he has to look after every job like buying the raw materials which is required to finish the production, finishing the garments and finally preparing the documentation for final shipping. As a single word, garments merchandiser is the main responsible person to make the product timely and ship the goods on time.
merchandising activities,

After get the purchase order from buying house, garments merchandiser have below responsibilities to ship the goods on time:
  1. Internal and external communication
  2. Sample preparing
  3. Trims and lab dip approval
  4. Preparing internal costing sheet & LC analysis
  5. Prepare order sheets of trims
  6. Accessories and trims in-house follow up
  7. Follow up bulk production and giving advice to quality department.
  8. Offering final inspection
  9. Giving shipping instructions and follow up until ship the goods

Internal and external communication

Garments merchandiser has to communicate not only with buyer but also communicate with suppliers, nominated factory concern and fabric manufacturers. Without proper communication there is no way to ship the goods on time. For factory merchandiser, internal and external communication is most important part in garments sector.

Sample making

Sample making is one of the most important tasks for a garments merchandiser. Before start the sample process, merchandiser collect technical sheet from buyer and develop the sample as per buyer instruction. Here merchandiser has develop different types of sample as per buyer requirement such as develop sample / fit sample, color selection sample, campaign sample, photo sample, size set sample, sales man sample, production sample etc. In garments industry, without sample approval there is no way to start the production as buyer can change anything in any stage after submit the sample for approval. After getting the comments from buyer, they will inform their next stage requirement.

Trims and lab approval

To start the bulk production of any trims, garments merchandiser has to take approval from buyer. As it is most important task for a merchandiser. Without buyer approval, factory will not proceed any production of the goods. Here, lab dip is also important part for a garment merchandiser. Before start the bulk fabric production, merchandiser has to take approval lad dip from buying house.

Preparing internal costing sheet and LC analysis

Before start the bulk production of any goods, merchandiser has to prepare internal costing sheet and LC analysis sheet to take the approval from companies’ top management like Managing Director. After getting confirmation from top management, merchandiser will proceed to prepare bulk work order of the style.

Prepare order sheet of trims

After taking approval of LC analysis from top management, merchandiser will prepare the bulk work order of trims to proceed the bulk production.  Different types of work order will placed such as bulk fabric, sewing items (e.g – Care label, main label, size label & sewing thread etc.) & finishing items (e.g hang tag, price tag, poly bag, sticker, carton etc).

Accessories and trims in house follow up

After place the work order by merchandiser, has to follow up until goods in house. In the meantime, merchandiser always communicated with buyer regarding trims item and in house the goods as per buyer instruction.

Bulk production and giving advice to quality department

Garments merchandiser must have good relationship with production people and quality department for smooth production. Before start the bulk sewing of the goods, merchandiser will arrange PP (pre-production) meeting with all responsible department. Timely communication with production people will help to ship the goods on time. Without proper communication with production people and quality department, shipment will impact on time.

Offering final inspection

Factory will arrange final inspection before shipping the goods to the buyer. Here merchandiser is playing as strong role to inspect the product by using strong quality department or third party quality inspector.

Giving shipping instruction and follow up

The final task of garment merchandiser is giving shipping instruction to the commercial department properly regarding export order of the garments. By maintaining those instructions, commercial department will ship the goods to the buyer. 

About Garments Merchandising

The “Garment Merchandising” is known to the persons who specially involved in garments trade. The term merchandising comes from the word merchandise. As a noun merchandise means products that are bought and sold. If we use as a verb, merchandise means to sell and buy products. In garments sector, the word merchandising means the activity of promoting the sale of the goods.

garments merchandising. apparel merchandising, textile merchanising

Merchandising term can be defined, a person who sells and buys the goods for specifically export purpose. In garments industries, garments merchandising means taking the purchase from buyers, purchase raw materials from vendors like fabrics & trims, producing from factories, maintaining required quality levels, always in touch with buyers with all update, follow up the production process until shipment and finally export the garments within time schedule. In a short way, we say that garments merchandising means the technique which is applied for selling and buying garment related products of a company in the best possible way.   

From the above small explanation, we can say that a person involved in garments merchandising needs a wide range of knowledge and skills to execute his job successfully without any problem. When an export order placed to a merchandiser, he has to schedule the following main function to execute the export order perfectly on time as per garments shipment date.
-          Yarn consumption calculation
-          Fabric consumption calculation
-          Accessories consumption calculation (e.g. thread, label, button, interlining, zipper, elastic, hang tag, poly bag, carton etc.)
-          Sourcing of yarns & place the work order
-          Sourcing of fabrics & place the work order
-          Sourcing of accessories and place the work order
-          Possible date of arrival of fabric & accessories in the garments factory.
-          Costing sheet making with LC analysis
-          Garments production planning
-          Pre-shipment inspection schedule
-          Shipping documents

Above all function is important, but the preparation of fabric and accessories are most important as because there are many technical parameters involved in specification in this area. Most of the time, fabric arrangement create some difficulties. To set on a fabric we should clearly specify the technical specification of the fabric during place a fabric supply order.


Actually a garments merchandiser is responsible for almost everything form order taking to shipment and finally payment realization. Short way to say that merchandising means to arrange all the required raw materials and make the goods ready to sell them to customers. Merchandiser handle almost 40 to 45 style at a time and chasing buyer for comments or approval, pushing supplier for raw materials or trims, chasing production team to maintain garments delivery schedule and finally chasing commercial department for shipping documentations. 

How to calculate sewing thread consumption and costing

In textile sector, sewing thread required to assemble garments parts or seam sewing, label attachment, buttonholing, over locking etc. It’s important to know that how much sewing thread used to stitch the garments product. Now- a- days, garments sector is going to be competitive marketplace in globally. Every manufacture company is trying to reduce their cost of production to get the order from buyer and maximize their profit. As a part of merchandising activity, we have to control total manufacturing cost of a product to optimize more profit from an order. Sewing thread is one of the accessories items, where we can reduce or minimize the cost of a product in bulk production. Calculating the right way of sewing thread consumption, we can reduce the manufacturing cost of a garments product.
sewing thread consumption, sewing thread costing, way to calculate thread consumption

In several way, we can determined sewing thread consumption for a garment product. To calculate the consumption of thread in a seam;
  • You can measure the actual amount of thread consumed in a specific length of seam.
  • Can be measure the consumption by using mathematical stitch formulas based on thickness of seam and number of stitches per inch.
If we reduce or minimize the cost of garments, manufacturing company will gain more profit from bulk production. As sewing thread is one of the common accessories in garments industry, here we can minimize the cost for a product. Means, control more production losses will gain more profit from an order. By minimizing the sewing thread for a particular order, not only saving the money, but also save warehouse maintenance cost in garments industry.

Sewing thread consumption means, how much thread we used for making a cloth in garments industry. To estimate sewing thread consumption for a garment, there is many way to do that. We will use standard formula to calculate the thread consumption for a garments. By using standard formula, we will get multiplied factors according to machine type and stitching classes. Length of seam depends on the following factors for actual sewing thread consumption;
  1. Classes of stitch
  2. Stitches per inches (SPI)
  3. Fabric thickness of the seam
  4. Thread tension
  5. Sewing thread count
By using manual way, we can also calculate machine wise thread consumption for a garments. It will be great if garment thread calculate manually by yourself. By following below step, we can develop multiplying factor according to product categories.

To calculate thread consumption, you need a sewing machine, fabric and thread that will be used in bulk production. For fabric and thread, we can take similar thickness and thread count for calculating consumption of thread.

Now sew a seam of 12 inches long and take 1 inch to manually check the consumption. After getting the consumption, add thread wastage 10-15% for smooth production.  

Find the below chart for quick action & machine wise estimate sewing thread per inches given below-
Machine Uses
Need thread per inch stitching
Plain Machine – Single needles
2.75 inches
Plain Machine – Two needles
5.5 inches
Over lock Machine – Three threads
15 inches
Over lock Machine – Four threads
18.75 to 20 inches
Over lock Machine – Five thread
23 inches
Safety stitch
20 inches
Flat lock Machine
22 inches
Chain stitches – One needles
12.5 inches
Chain stitches – Two needles
25 inches
Button Hole
24 inches
Bar take machine
26 inches

Sewing thread consumption calculation is one of the most important task in garment industry. So, garments merchandiser must have proper knowledge to calculate the sewing thread consumption. Otherwise, sewing thread may short during bulk production or will stock thread because of excess booking. During booking of sewing thread, merchandiser have to calculate thread properly and place the work order as required.

Using above estimate machine wise thread consumption, we will see how to calculate sewing thread costing, how to calculate thread consumption, how much will save. Suppose, Buyer C&A place a T-shirt order for kid’s with below details;
  • Total 4 thread over lock (O/L) – 55 inches
  • Total flat lock used (F/L) – 35 inches
  • 2 needles chain stitches used – 25 inches
  • Plain machine (P/M) one needle used – 40 inches

Total consumption for T-shirt –
(55” x 4 thread O/L) + (35” x F/L) + (25” x 2 needles chain stitches) + (40” x One needle P/M)
= (55” x 18.75) + (35” x 22) + (25” x 25) + (40” x 2.75)
= 1031 inch + 770 inch + 625 inch + 110 inch
= 2536 inches
= 2536 inches / 39.37 = 64.4 Meter (Note: 1 meter = 39.37 inches)
= 64.4 inches + (15% wastage of total consumption)
= 74 meter / body

As per above consumption, let’s find out cost of the sewing thread for this kid’s t-shirt order. Note that, maximum garments product used 100% spun polyester to stitch / attached the garments. For calculating cost of sewing thread need below information;
  • Count of sewing thread
  • Consumption of the body / garments
  • Sewing thread unit price per cone
Suppose, a C&A buyer have kid’s order with below details and need to calculate the cost of sewing thread;
  • Count of sewing thread is 50/2, 100% spun polyester
  • Total thread consumption, 74 meter per body
  • Sewing thread price $0.52 / cone for 4000 meter
Let’s calculate the costing of sewing thread for above kid’s order;
Unit price of cone / total meter of cone x consumption of per body
= $0.52 / 4000 x 74 meter
= $0.01 / per body

Above costing has come for one garments. If we have 150000 pcs garments for an order then total cost will be (150000 pcs x $0.01) $1500. If we calculate how many cone needed to complete total production then;
Total order quantity x sewing thread consumption per body
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                           Total meter of cone
= 150,000 x 74 / 3800
= 2912 cone

Here, we divided by 3800 meter instead of 4000 meter, because of production safety. Sometime, actual 4000 meter may not be present in the cone. So, we are using 3800 meter for safety and smooth bulk production. 

Now let’s see how much we will save, if you calculate the consumption correctly for a particular garments product. Suppose, without calculation we place the booking of sewing thread as 90 meter / body. As per consumption and order quantity, total sewing thread needed 3552 cone (for 150,000 pcs garments). That means, total cost of sewing thread is $1847 (3552 cone x $0.52). Here we can see, for a single order we can save almost $347 ($1847-$1500).